If your latest renovation project features a new ceiling, don’t panic at the thought of overhead drywall work. In the right situation, a suspended ceiling offers some real advantages on the permanent variety. First, ducts, pipes and cables hidden above a dropped ceiling remain accessible for repair or modification. And 2nd, suspended ceilings are better sound barriers than drywall ceilings Açılır Tavan .
For the do-it-yourselfer, though, the actual bonus is not difficult installation that needs only simple household tools. Made up of metallic grid that supports lightweight panels, a suspended ceiling is well throughout the capabilities of many homeowners. If you’re worried about the institutional look, drop-in ceiling panels are becoming more appealing recently, with a wide array of designs to choose from.
While suspended ceilings usually are not for everybody, or perhaps for every situation, they are lots of sense in basements and in first-floor rooms with bathrooms overhead. When a leak appears in the overhead plumbing, a suspended ceiling often means the visible difference between a costly, time-consuming repair job along with a minor inconvenience.
Everything required for any suspended ceiling is enough head clearance. Requirements vary, but the majority codes stipulate the absolute minimum 7 1/2-ft. ceiling height in new construction. Some codes, however, will accommodate a reduced ceiling height if it’s component of a renovation project, so it pays to ask. You’ll need roughly 4 in. of space between the old and new ceilings to tilt the panels set up, along with an additional 2 in. if you plan to put in drop-in, full-panel fluorescent ceiling lights.
We installed our suspended ceiling in a wood-frame drywalled room, though concrete or concrete-block basement walls wouldn’t have changed the installation much. In this case, just use masonry screws as an alternative to nails to secure the perimeter molding that supports the ceiling at its edges.
Deciding on a system
Cellular phone steps vary from one manufacturer to the next, although not significantly. We chose an Armstrong Tegular Ceiling (Armstrong World Industries Inc., P.O. Box 173058, Denver, CO 90217). Tegular ceiling panels use a recessed flange that allows them to protrude underneath the grid roughly 1/4 in. While these panels tend to be more attractive, they generally do require careful trimming when a smaller panel is necessary.
Once you’ve chosen a ceiling package, consider the grid layout. While home centers and retailers will be glad to work up a parts list, according to a scaled drawing of your space, you ought to have an overall feeling of exactly how the components go together before getting started.
Typical systems provide an L-shaped perimeter bracket, or molding, to aid the suspended ceiling at the walls. Out of this molding, long stringers, called main runners, are installed every 4 ft. and run the size of the area. The ends of the main runners rest about the perimeter moldings and all things in between is suspended with wires secured for the joists above. Cross tees are installed across these runners at intervals of 24 in. This grid will be all that’s required to support 2 x 4-ft. ceiling panels. With 2 x 2-ft. panels, one more group of connectors divides each 2 x 4-ft. area.
Step One: Setting the Perimeter
The first task is to look for the maximum height of your new suspended ceiling. In the event you don’t want to use a drop-in fluorescent fixture, measure down about 4 in. through the existing ceiling joists and mark the wall. The 4-in. space is just enough to angle the tiles into position. (Should you do plan to put in a drop-in fixture, put the mark 6 in. through the joists.) At this mark, draw a line three sides in the room by using a 4-ft. level.
Measure down from your joists at a number of locations throughout the room to ensure that you’ll have plenty of space above the panel grid at all points all over the existing ceiling. In case your ceiling joists don’t lie on the level plane, make sure to measure down 4 in. from the lowest point about the lowest joist. Once the three perimeter lines are level and also at the proper height, connect them with a chalkline about the remaining wall.
Step 2: Setting the Perimeter
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Together with the perimeter established, locate the wall studs and nail the perimeter molding in place in order that the the top of the molding aligns using the perimeter lines. Use 6d nails and avoid scuffing the painted surface of the molding. Cut the molding to put with tin snips. For too long walls, butt the ends of two pieces of molding.
Step 3: Setting the Perimeter
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Once you visit an inside corner, install the very first time period of molding tight versus the corner and butt the next length from the first.
Step 4: Setting the Perimeter
For outside corners, a mitered joint is a lot more attractive. With your tin snips, cut both moldings at a 45 degree angle and secure them in place with 6d nails.
Step 5: Installing the Runners
With the perimeter molding into position, install the key runners perpendicular towards the joists and 4 ft. apart. The secret the following is to put the panel grid to ensure the ceiling appears balanced from side to side. Most rooms will accommodate several full-size panels along with an edge gap that will require partial panels.
Measure across the room parallel to the joists and divide from the panel length to find the quantity of full panels that can easily fit in the space. To ascertain the perimeter gap at every wall, subtract the amount of the panel lengths in the room dimension. In the event the gap is simply 1 or 2 in. short of a complete panel, you might be able to start against one side wall and continue across to the opposite wall with full-size panels. In case the gap is anything less, it’s best to divide it in two, placing half on each side. If the gap is 18 in. wide, for example, it would look better if either side in the room have a 9-in.-wide row of partial panels. In this instance, start the initial main runner 9 in. through the wall, continue throughout the room with full panels, and end with a main runner 9 in. from the opposing wall.
A comparable calculation must be created in the alternative direction. Here, intersecting members, called cross tees, are positioned in slots on each main runner. If you want to trim several inches in the lead ends of your main runners to accommodate a row of partial panels, be sure you trim exactly the same amount from each runner in order that the cross tees will likely be parallel for the wall along with the panel openings are square.
To set up the primary runners, measure right out of the starting wall the determined gap distance and snap a chalkline across joists. Then, measure 4 ft. out of this line and snap a 2nd line. Continue doing this procedure in 4-ft. increments until you reach the far wall.
Step 6: Installing the Runners
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To aid the principle runners, screw small eyebolts into every third joist across the chalklines. Then, fasten lengths of 16-gauge wire to each eyebolt. Twist the wire a minimum of 3 x around itself at the very top. Then, stretch string tightly across the room between perimeter moldings, about every 8 ft., so the string is aligned with all the bottoms in the molding. Take advantage of this string to level each main runner while you hang it looking at the wires.
Set the lead end of the runner around the perimeter molding minimizing it until it touches the first string. Sight throughout the runner to determine the best places to bend the very first wire support. Bend the wire, feed it with the nearest hole within the runner, bend it up and twist it no less than 3 x.
Step 7: Installing the Runners
Continue hanging the runners within this fashion until each is supported every 4 ft. Should your room is beyond the runners, join them end to finish, using the slots and tabs that are part of the ends of each and every.
Step 8: Installing the Runners
Place an additional wire support near each of these joints. Trim the extra from the last period of runner with tin snips.
Step 9: Installing the Runners
Together with the runners in position, tie them alongside the cross tees spaced 2 ft. apart. The cross tees have a hook on each end that matches in a slot within the runners.
Step 10: Installing the Runners
If the system you’ve chosen has 2 x 4-ft. panels, install the panels in the heart of the grid now to aid square the assembly. Should your system has 2 x 2-ft. panels, install the 2-ft. connectors before moving on. These connectors parallel the runners and fit slots within the cross tees. With all the 2-ft. connectors into position, install enough of the center panels to square the grid.
Step 11: Installing the Runners
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With all the grid pretty much square, cut and install pieces to connect the grid with the perimeter molding. Again, the factory ends hook in to the runner and cross-tee slots whilst the cut ends rest in addition to the perimeter molding.
Step 12: Adding Fixtures
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If you intend to put in a complete-panel, drop-in fluorescent light fixture, you’ll must provide some protection for that wiring that extends involving the the electrical box connected to a ceiling joist and the fixture. Codes will need these particular wires be encased in flexible metal conduit.
Beginning from the fixture, mount a 90degree conduit/box connector at one of the channel knockouts inside the fixture. Then, feed three 14-gauge insulated wires (black, white and green) through a duration of flexible conduit and to the channel box. Fasten the conduit set up by tightening the connector’s set screw. Join these lead wires on the fixture’s leads when you would normally, connecting like-colored wires.
Step 13: Adding Fixtures
Set the fixture from the grid rather than among the panels, and connect the rest of the end from the conduit to your blank, junction-box cover plate. Break the knockout from your plate and join it towards the conduit using a standard box connector. Finish through making the wiring connections and fastening the plate towards the box.
Step 14: Ductwork and Diffusers
Heating ducts will also require special attention. Generally, the task requires bringing the ductwork as a result of a level just above the top of the the panel, cutting an opening inside the panel and inserting a diffuser.
Should your duct leads to a rectangular boot, be sure the boot has side tabs that will assist you to screw throughout the diffuser and panel and into tabs within the duct boot. This could require a certain amount of custom sheetmetal work on your side, but it won’t have to be fancy.
If your ductwork ends in a downward facing elbow, or if you’ve was required to bring your personal duct to the room, you could opt for a round diffuser with adjustable output. These plastic or metal diffusers can be bought at most home centers. Again, the trick is bringing the duct towards the panel.
To determine the best position, lay a level or perhaps a straightedge over the grid. Then, extend the duct down to a point just on top of the panel. You’ll should also frame a structural support over the joist space containing the duct so that it doesn’t settle under its very own weight.
Step 15: Ductwork and Diffusers
With all the duct ready, measure carefully from two sides of the grid and position the diffuser about the panel accordingly. Trace around the diffuser with a pencil and cut along this line to produce the opening.
Step 16: Ductwork and Diffusers
Finally, install the panel, push the diffuser to the duct and screw it on the duct by dealing with an adjacent opening inside the grid.
Step 17: Finishing Up
With regards to cutting panels to fill small perimeter openings, always cut with the finished side in the panel facing up and constantly make use of a sharp utility knife. Stay away from power equipment–you’ll create far too much cellulose dust and also the job won’t get done any faster.
Start by measuring the grid opening and adding about 3/8 in. for your new flange. Slice from the panel completely, using several passes if required.
Step 18: Finishing Up
To generate a new tegular flange, lay the flange of any complete panel on the cut piece and scribe the brand new flange line.
Step 19: Finishing Up
Cut along this line, only to half the panel’s depth.
Step 20: Finishing Up
Then, lay the knife on its side and slice in to the panel from its edge, in the same height since the factory flange. This will remove adequate material to generate a custom flange. Install the cut panel so the new, unpainted flange faces the wall.